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  • Jancis Robinson
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  • Jancis Robinson
10 Nov 2010

In Burgundy last week I spent most of the time in the region's typical atmospheric, low, cramped, underground stone cellars but at the very end of my visit I met up with Australian Mark Haisma, whose first two vintages had impressed me. He makes pretty tiny quantities of wine from bought-in grapes in the least glamorous setting I have yet to encounter in Burgundy. The picture shows him and the green tarp that serves instead of a thick stone wall.

The wine is made not under a village backstreet but off a dirt track behind a supermarket just off the main RN74. He still seems to be coaxing something pretty good into the barrels that he keeps chez Philippe Naigeon in Gevrey, however.