The Wine Society's spring collection

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The UK-based Wine Society continued its biannual tradition of showing off the great value it offers its members (who have admittedly to pay £40 for a life-time share in this wine-buying co-operative). Note the number of GVs and even VGVs below. 


The reds were even more impressive, if anything, than the whites, although Mac Forbes' Blind Spot bottlings from all over Australia were outstanding value by any measure, especially when one thinks of the strength of the Australian dollar (although I thought the Yarra Chardonnay from his home patch one of the weaker wines in this range). There were some great bargains from Portugal, too.


Wines are listed by colour and in descending score order.

WHITES

Ch Cantegril, The Society's Exhibition 2010 Sauternes

Château Cantegril is owned by father-and-son team Pierre and Denis Dubourdieu, who also own Château Doisy-Daëne. Cantegril is an enclosed 20-hectare vineyard planted in one piece on the limestone plateau of Haut Barsac. Roughly 75% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle.
Very rich and enticing on the nose. Perfectly representative even if not the most concentrated, so relatively open. You could already enjoy it even if it will age for an age. 13.5%
Drink
2013
2023
£19 The Wine Society
17

Zarcillo Gewurztraminer 2012 Bío-Bío

Certainly a textbook Gewurz at a great price with just a hint of sweetness. Very upfront but great for varietal teaching! GV 13.5%
Drink
2013
£6.25 The Wine Society
16

Joseph Burrier, Ch de Beauregard, La Roche 2010 St-Véran

50% tank fermented and 50% barrel fermented. Broad palate entry and then very tight on the finish. Seems a little expensive in comparison to the Society’s Exhibition Limarí Chardonnay. Earnestly made. 13%
Drink
2014
2017
£12.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, The Society's Riesling 2011 Saar

Brilliant texture, flavour and quality for the money. Such smoothness next to the Chilean Corte Ignacio example. Delicacy too. Herby flavours. Vibrant but probably not a long-term player. VGV 11%
Drink
2013
2015
£8.95 The Wine Society
16

Concha y Toro, Ignacio Riesling 2011 Casablanca

Big and off dry with quite a bit of residual sugar – borderline Kabinett and Spätlese? Very slightly phenolic but pure and quite well priced. 11.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Botanica, Mary Delany Collection Chenin Blanc 2010 Citrusdal Mountain

A beautiful wine showing the finesse and balance that may be achieved from cooler climate old-vine fruit (in this case from a vineyard at about 800 metres near Clanwilliam). Brightness of fresh, aromatic citrus fruit distinguishes this exceptional wine, from new star Virginia Povall.
This wine seems rather less exciting than the breathless note from the Wine Society buyers (see italics above). I couldn't be more of a fan of South African Chenin from outlying vineyards but… it seems a little middle-of-the-road to me. Yes it's fresh. and perhaps a bit Loireish. Good dry finish. Very different from the usual dense honeyed model. Will probably wear well though.

13.5%
Drink
2013
2016
£14.95 The Wine Society
16

Prince Știrbey, Tămâioasă Românească Sec 2012 Romania

Light and fresh. Delicate grapey fruit with a dry finish – quite a contrast to the Torrontés tasted immediately before it. Rather Germanic build! I would never guess 14% alcohol. Well made. 14%
Drink
2013
2015
£9.50 The Wine Society
16

Ch Mont-Pérat 2011 Bordeaux

Complex smoky nose. Creamy and rich. Then a dry finish. Really intriguing and rich. Flattering. Long. 13.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£12.50 The Wine Society
16

The Foundry Roussanne 2011 Stellenbosch

100% Roussanne from a single vineyard. I'm a fan of The Foundry but this seems a little simple at the moment. A bit pinched without much aromatic complexity. 13.5%
Drink
2014
2015
£11.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Las Olas Verdejo 2012 Rueda

Bit dull but very green, fruity and refreshing. Competent even if unexciting. 13%
Drink
2013
2014
£7.25 The Wine Society
15

Concha y Toro, The Society’s Chilean Chardonnay 2012 Limarí

About 10% barrel-fermented wine. Very tight with something almost Sauvignon-like about this but super refreshing. As though there is quite a bit of carbon dioxide in here. Very pungent and GV. 14%
Drink
2013
2015
£6.75 The Wine Society
15.5

ROSÉS

Étienne Suzzoni, Culombu Rosé 2012 Vin de Corse

40% Nielluccio, 40% Sciacarello, 20% Grenache. You have to struggle a bit to find the Corsican maquis flavours under the high-tech low-temperature fermentation aromas. Perhaps they will have emerged in time for summer? 12.5%
Drink
2013
£8.95 The Wine Society
15

REDS

Mount Langi Ghiran, The Society's Exhibition Shiraz 2007 Victoria

Fabulous value for such a mature wine sold in Australian dollars. Fully resolved and savoury. I honestly find it difficult to believe the price. The label isn’t exciting but the wine certainly is. VGV. 14.5%
Drink
2011
2016
£11.95 The Wine Society
16.5

Can Blau, Blau 2011 Montsant

Carignan, Syrah, Grenache. Massively exuberant then minerally. Just as attractive as many a Priorat with masses of character. VGV 14.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£8.95 The Wine Society
16.5

Familia Deicas, Atlántico Sur Tannat 2011 Maldonado

More serious than the Marselan, this has very sweet fruit with very slightly obvious oak. As though icing sugar had been sprinkled on it. Not thoroughly refreshing.

14%
Drink
2013
2016
£11.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Catena Zapata, The Society's Exhibition Malbec 2010 Mendoza

60% Gualtallary fruit at 1450 m, for perfume and finesse, and 40% (from two different wines each 20%) from Agrelo at 950 m.
Savoury nose and sweet, flattering palate entry with well-judged combination of ripe sweet fruit and structure. Serious, grown-up wine. With some floral, rose-petal top notes. All pleasure. Though sweet rather than dry on the end too. I suspect it's more than 14%. GV 14%
Drink
2013
2019
£9.95 The Wine Society
16.5

Quinta Vale D Maria, Rufo 2010 Douro

The Wine Society tasting note says it all: 'Fresh tasting, mineral, and fragrant.' Actually manages to be quite lifted and lively. No heat. No raisined-fruit notes. Really VGV 13.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£8.50 The Wine Society
16

Castillo del Barón Monastrell 2010 Yecla

Sweet and vibrant nose then a bit dull and sour on the end. Somehow the richness promised on the nose has been sucked out of it. 13.5%
Drink
2013
2014
£5.50 The Wine Society
15

Ch d'Aurilhac 2004 Haut-Médoc

Matured for a year in French oak barrels, 35% of which were new. Good stuff! Mature, inexpensive claret from St-Seurin de Cadourne. Strong gravelly note. Appetising. Great with a roast. GV 13.5%
Drink
2010
2018
£12.50 The Wine Society
16

Ch de Panigon 2009 Médoc

Fairly standard issue. Slightly inky. Not much charm. Wait? 14%
Drink
2015
2020
£9.95 The Wine Society
15.5 +

Ch Florie Aude, Les Argilières 2008 Bordeaux

85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Great price! Juicy and light. Well-balanced stew of rusty nails. Old-fashioned claret that hides its alcohol extremely well. For traditionalists. GV 14%
Drink
2012
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Dom de la Noblaie 2011 Chinon

Useful half bottle. Lovely pure scent, even from this challenging vintage. Juicy with a slatey sort of dry finish. Classic stuff! 13.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£5.25 per half bottle The Wine Society
16.5

Heumann, Reserve Kékfrankos 2009 Villány

Deep crimson. Very nervy and rich on the nose with sleek, well-groomed fruit. Certainly as good as many an Austrian Blaufränkisch. Well done but a tad bumptious and sweet.

15%
Drink
2013
2016
£16 The Wine Society
16

Pittnauer, Pitti 2011 Burgenland

Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch blend. Dusty fruity nose. Lots of ripe fruit. Slightly cinnamon spicy. Finishes a little suddenly but a very good introduction to Austrian red. GV 13.5%
Drink
2013
2014
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Terroir d'Origem, Vinha do Reino 2010 Douro

Lower key and less dramatic than many a Douro red, but so much cheaper! Lots of character per penny. Like a blend of 90% Médoc with 10% port. GV 13.5%
Drink
2013
2016
£6.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Plantaže Vranac 2010 Montenegro

Proper wine at a supermarket price. Just slightly dull on the end but lots of round, Adriatic fruit and a dry tarry finish. GV 13%
Drink
2012
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
16

Comm G B Burlotto, Vigneto Monvigliero 2008 Barolo

Wonderfully seductive complex nose. Lighter and more open than many 2008s. Ethereal. Tar and roses indeed. A wine to demonstrate Barolo's allure to doubters? 14.5%
Drink
2013
2021
£28 The Wine Society
17.5

Thymiopoulos, Earth and Sky 2009 Naoussa

Xynomavro, 40-year-old vines. Looks and smells quite evolved with obviously dry-grown, hot-climate fruit – even a light suggestion of raisins, caramel and tar – but very well balanced with refreshing acidity on the finish. Though I must confess I had been hoping for a bargain… 14.5%
Drink
2012
2017
£20 The Wine Society
16.5

Dog Point Pinot Noir 2010 Marlborough

More complex nose than the Craggy Pinot made especially for the Wine Society. Polished and sophisticated. Pure pleasure. Not cheap though. 14%
Drink
2013
2018
£23.50 The Wine Society
17

J Hofstätter, Mazon Pinot Nero Riserva 2009 Alto Adige

Very aromatic and ethereal after the much earthier Marsannays. Juicy and pretty without ersatz sweetness. Only a hint of coffee flavour. A fine example. Though just a tad dry on the end. 13.5%
Drink
2013
2018
£21 The Wine Society
16.5

Dom Sylvain Pataille 2010 Marsannay

Pale cherry red. Bracing and uncompromising. None of the friendly sweetness of the Chilean. A little dour for the moment. 12.5%
Drink
2014
2018
£14.50 The Wine Society
15.5

Maycas del Limarí, Reserva Especial 2011 Limarí

70% open-topped tanks and with new oak reduced from 40% to 20%. Slightly green note on smooth, gentle Pinot fruit. Refreshing and nicely judged but a tiny bit simple. 14%
Drink
2013
2016
£11.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Clavesana 2011 Dolcetto di Dogliani

Scented and exuberantly ripe. Bone dry and tangy – almost as though there were a little dried grape in here – but masses of pure personality. VGV 13.5%
Drink
2013
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
16

Dom Chignard, Les Moriers 2012 Fleurie

Exciting mineral streak cuts through the vibrant fruit. Dry finish, thoroughly French! No fun without food but lovely with fairly light dishes and saucisson, Should age well.

12.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£9.50 The Wine Society
16.5

Curto, La Foia 2011 Barbera d'Alba

La Morra. No clarification or filtering. Quite pale crimson. Lovely purity on the nose. Very fresh and zesty. Marked acidity but absolutely no layers of make-up. Does this make it a natural wine? GV 14%
Drink
2013
2017
£8.50 The Wine Society
16

Terra d’Alter 2011 Vinho Regional Alentejano

Aragonez (Tempranillo), with Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, and small proportions of other local grapes. Ridiculously cheap. Harmonious, intriguing nose. Soberly but attractively labelled. Damson fruit and definitely sweetness before acid and light tannin. A very well-judged whole. VGV 14%
Drink
2013
2015
£5.95 The Wine Society
16