Trans-Pacific Chardonnay evolves

As we all know, technology advances at breakneck pace. Today’s 3G iPhone is tomorrow’s Betamax. Each week, life becomes more automated, more connected, more user-friendly. And yet nobody has worked out a decent way of stacking bowls in the dishwasher.

Life is full of such enigmas. The ABC movement, for example. Such indiscreet prejudice for such a diverse variety! The ABSB club I could understand – and maybe even argue a strong case for – but a blanket ban on Chardonnay? As John Kongsgaard of Sonoma says: “Mozart may be ubiquitous, but that doesn’t diminish the brilliance.”

With that in...