Two birthday dinners

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Last weekend I attended birthday dinners on successive nights: a 68th birthday dinner at the birthday boy's home with an extraordinary range of wines from his cellar and a 50th birthday celebration chez nous for John Wood, the founder of Room to Read, the hugely successful organisation that spreads literacy throughout the developing world.

FRIDAY NIGHT

The roster of wines for the 68th, all served blind, had a very strong theme – Cheval Blancs from vintages ending with a zero – back to 1920! – bookended by a pair of exceptionally mature whites, including a Ch d'Yquem made as...