Two Californian Cabernets (one of them from Greece)

At a gigantic tasting of the current wares of Britain's most wine-minded supermarket Waitrose this week I was bowled over by an organic Greek red. Tsantali Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Halkidiki is so beautifully made for the money (just £5.99 from Waitrose and its mail order operation Waitrose Direct). Okay it's a bit flashier than a red bordeaux, but it has lovely sweet, supple fruit and really glamorous all-comer appeal – in just the same way that a good-quality Californian Cabernet has.

You perhaps should know that when I expressed (rather unaccustomed) praise for this wine to the recently retired head...