Federico Vincenzi, Italian sommelier and wine writer, sends this report.
Autoctono (autochthonous) is a new term which is getting more and more popular among wine lovers in
We all know and love the “international” grapes and we are all aware that the “terroir” is one of the most important factors that contributes to make a great wine. The aim of this article is not to create a sort of competition between autochthonous and international grape varieties, but to underline that every single wine-producing country should proceed in its efforts and research in finding out about its origins and traditions.
I was recently invited to attend the Vitigno Italia 2006 fair in
These are the varieties I found particularly interesting, with details of the particular example I tasted.
Red ruby; mature red fruit (raspberry, plum); round and persistent. Alcohol: 13%. 2005. Producer: Azienda Vinicola Setaro.
Coda di Volpe from
Yellow straw; fresh fruit with white pulp (as pineapple and peach); full and persistent. Alcohol: 13%. 2005. Producer: Azienda Vinicola Setaro.
Aleatico from Lazio, from the Bolsena lake area.
Dessert wine; light red ruby; red stewed fruit; very delicate and fresh; persistent and balanced. Alcohol 11.5%. 2005. Producer: Falesco.
Denomination “Taurasi” Riserva 2001 DOCG. Red ruby with garnet nuances; Intense, plum, withered black cherry; flowery (violet); black pepper; nice tannins, persistent, balanced. Alcohol: 14,5%. 2001. Producer: Cantine Lonardo.
Denomination “Ruche’ di Castagnole Monferrato” DOC. Light ruby red; strawberry and raspberry; tannic; Alcohol: 14%. 2004. Producer: Dezzani.
Yellow straw with green nuances; fresh fruit, cucumber melon, peach, apricot; mineral and delicate; slightly persistent. Alcohol: 12,5%. 2005. Producer: Rudini’.
Nero d’Avola from
Denomination “Eloro Pachino” DOC. Ruby red with purple reflections. Notes of red berries, cherry, vanilla and fruit jam. On the taste it’s rich of ripe fruit; great structure, smooth tannins. Refined in oak barrels. Alcohol: 14%. 2001. Producer: Rudini’.
Ribolla Gialla from Friuli, approx.12 km south-east of
Denomination Colli Orientali
Tazzelenghe from Friuli, approx.12 km south-east of
Name origin: “taglia lingua”, meaning tongue cutter, because this wine, when very young, is very acid and tannic.
Denomination Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC. Impenetrable and dark red, with brick-colored nuances; on the nose: bilberry, raspberry, tar and liquorices; soft and alive tannins; persistent and balanced. Alcohol: 14%. 2002. Producer: Conte d’Attimis-Maniago.
Greco di Tufo from
Intense yellow straw; fresh fruit, especially peach and green apple; back-taste of bitter almond. Pretty well persistent; Alcohol: 12,5%. 2002. Producer: Fattoria Prattico.
Lagrein from Alto Adige (South-Tirol), municipalities of Montagna and Egna.
Bright red; on the nose: hints of red berries, fresh grass and violets; on the palate: good concentration and soft tannins. Alcohol: 13%. 2003. Producer: Franz Haas.
Moscato Rosa from Alto Adige (South-Tirol), municipalities of Montagna and Egna.
Produced with skin contact maceration. Light red; on the nose: roses, cloves and orange peel; on the palate: very complex, delicate sweet and rounded; very soft tannins. Alcohol: 12,5%. 2003. Producer: Franz Haas.
Intense ruby red, much colored; on the nose it’s fruity (egriot and stewed prunes); Tannic . Alcohol: 12,5%. 2003. Producer: Catabbo.