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Drinking old white Rhônes
Matt Cole, London W1: I recently had a bottle of 1993 white St Joseph by Bernard Gripa in a fairly well known restaurant. I'd never tried it before. It had a raisiny apple/pear fruit and a strong gunpowder/flint finish. It seemed to me to have been delibertately oxidised, but I wasn't sure, though I didn't let this on to my girlfriend's family whom I was trying to impress at the time. Looking him up afterwards in Hugh Johnson's Wine Companion , his whites are down as 90 per cent Marsanne - crisp and refreshing. This didn't fit that bill. Should I have been drinking white St Jo this old? Could it have been deliberately oxidised?...
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