Is there such a thing as the ideal wine?
Eric Lecours, San Francisco: Recently I attended a talk given by a long-time Berkeley importer of repute who discussed wine tasting, comparing his approach to that of an influential American wine critic. He explained that in evaluating a wine the American critic judged all wines against an ideal wine, an ideal aesthetic. This insight struck home with me. This is why I have always had such reservations about the scores published by the American publications. The importer went on to say that he tried to approach all wines without such comparisons and that "balance" was his aesthetic ideal rather than having an ideal wine with which he...
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