Patricia, London: I just couldn't miss the opportunity to comment on your recent RSVP (ha-ha!) comments .  I agree that Alsace can be overly austere in its youth, but does often come round (even Trimbach, perhaps a little surprisingly.)  [See Trimbach on young Trimbach .] I digress. The main point I wished to make is this: "Everything in moderation." A little VA, a little brett, a little oxidative note, ad nauseum, add complexity and interest (oops, that word again.) Many of us imbibers like a touch of the "terroir" (oops, another dodgy word.) I stated at least twice to one of our B(udding)MWs this morning that balance is the...