Zind Humbrecht's 2002s

I admire Olivier Humbrecht's unceasing quest for quality immensely and he has succeeded in making many luscious, intense and attention-grabbing wines but, and it's a big but, many of the wines of which he must be most proud, the most successful late harvest wines for example, are difficult to drink with food (see my article on sweet wines in wine news on 02 oct). They are not as all-out rich and combative as Sauternes and, especially the Pinot Gris and Gewurz, not as refreshing as a Beerenauslese for example. And because the precise balance between apparent sweetness and apparent acidity...