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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander (my saintly husband) writes regularly about food and restaurants for the Financial Times, where he is known as the restaurant insider because he is one of the few restaurant critics who have actually owned and run a successful one: L'Escargot in its glory days in the 1980s. Find out more at www.nicklander.com.

Alice Waters honoured by the French

20 Mar 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

Alice Waters, the founder of Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, California in 1971 and the passionate campaigner for local, sustainable and seasonal food, will be made a Chevalier du Legion d’Honneur by the French Consul General in San Francisco this Friday. It will be a quiet ceremony. More...

A night in Panzano

16 Mar 2010 by Nick Lander

The dinner menu at Le Café Anglais on Monday 8 Mar was headed A Night in Panzano. But the more frequently I looked around the packed dining room and took in some of the characters, the more I began to think that I was on the set of the Marx brothers' film 'A Night at The Opera.' There was,. More...

In the depths of Wiltshire

13 Mar 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

I set off for The Beckford Arms, in the depths of Wiltshire, with two specific questions for its chef, Mark Blatchford, whose food I had always previously enjoyed in both London and New York. Why had he suddenly left the big smoke and what did he miss most in his new, more tranquil setting?. More...

Of rice and men

6 Mar 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

The second course of our dinner at the Tawaraya ryokan, a traditional inn where one sleeps directly on tatami mats, in Kyoto, Japan, contained a series of dried and pickled fish topped with a hiragi leaf, very similar but smaller than a holly leaf. (The picture is of just part of a room service. More...

Rose Gray of the River Café

3 Mar 2010 by Nick Lander

The sad death of Rose Gray, the founder with long-time business partner Ruth Rogers of London's highly influential River Café, after a valiant battle against cancer, rips a hole through the ranks of modern British cooking at many, many levels. While there are some who may claim that with its. More...

More, more, more!

27 Feb 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

When I walked into More, a five-minute walk east from London Bridge station en route to Tower Bridge, chef Theodore Kyriakou was standing in almost the same position as I had seen him in for the past 15 years, albeit in several very different locations. He was by an open range in a striking. More...

France's most feared critic?

20 Feb 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

François Simon, France's least recognised but most respected and most feared restaurant critic thanks to weekly columns in Le Figaro, Figaroscope and disguised appearances on the cable channel Paris Première , approached our corner table at Stella Maris in Paris carrying the tools of his. More...

The best roast duck in the world?

13 Feb 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

It was 3.30 pm and my fifth visit to the Four Seasons restaurant in London's Chinatown (pictured at night). Finally, I was going to be granted a rare glimpse of its famed barbecue section, located on the fourth floor of this narrow, but always bustling, building, normally never revealed to a. More...

Madrid looks east

6 Feb 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

On the night before I was to make my first appearance on the stage of Madrid Fusion, the annual gathering in late January at which top chefs from around the world demonstrate their prowess in the Spanish capital, I walked into the bar of the Hotel Ritz to find Ferran Adriá of El Bulli sitting on. More...

My Thai

30 Jan 2010 by Nick Lander/FT

Two stalls by the estuary in the fishing village just to the north of Cha-Am in Thailand would delight any chef or lover of seafood. Behind the first sat a woman swinging her axe at a mound of oysters. Once the shells had been prised apart, she used a small knife to remove the meat that. More...

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