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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander (my saintly husband) writes regularly about food and restaurants for the Financial Times, where he is known as the restaurant insider because he is one of the few restaurant critics who have actually owned and run a successful one: L'Escargot in its glory days in the 1980s. Find out more at www.nicklander.com.

From Copenhagen to La Paz

18 May 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

I have never yet devoted this column to a restaurant I have not previously eaten in. But such is my enthusiasm for the aspirations that lie behind Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia, which opened on 18 April and is already employing 30 young, marginalised Bolivians, that I trust I will be forgiven on. More...

Brooks of Melbourne

11 May 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

Gerald Diffey, wearing a dapper grey suit, stood by the striking white marble bar and surveyed the dining room of Brooks as it began to fill. This is the restaurant he opened six months ago in the centre of Melbourne, Australia, with his partners Mario Di Ienno and chef Nicolas Poelaert.. More...

Mayfair - where keys cost £9m

4 May 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

Alan Yau and his backers have just agreed to pay over £9 million for nothing more substantial than a set of keys to what was the ill-fated Automat restaurant on Dover Street, London. So far, Alan Yau is known for having maximized the vital ratio between rent and sales more. More...

Burgundy in Paris

27 Apr 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

La Table des Anges in the shadow of Montmartre and Les Climats just behind the Musée d'Orsay in Paris could not be more different to the passer by. The former boasts four tables on a narrow pavement while that outside Les Climats is home to a tall, well-dressed doorman who stands. More...

London's Balthazar - via New York and Paris

20 Apr 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

Balthazar, the French brasserie that has played to full houses since it first opened on Spring Street, Manhattan, in 1997, has finally transferred to London's Covent Garden. It boasts an intriguing cast. First and foremost is the English-born restaurateur Keith McNally, 61, who has. More...

New York's Calliope

13 Apr 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

Few of the restaurants that I have ever enjoyed have their origins quite as geographically widespread as those that underpin the charming Calliope on New York's Lower East Side. Moreover, although Calliope opened less than a year ago and its owners, Eric and Ginevra Korsh (pictured. More...

A corkage policy to make Jancis smile

6 Apr 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

Dinner at the Heirloom Café in the Mission district of San Francisco left several strong impressions. The first was of our party of six, three Americans, two Brits and a Frenchman, sitting happily at one end of a large, wooden, communal table facing several bottles of what were. More...

Eating out in Sydney's CBD

30 Mar 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

The Bridge Room, which opened in August 2011, and Cafe Nice, which is only a month old, are no more than 500 metres from one another in Sydney's Central Business District. Although their menus are very different - the former is a model of modern Australian cooking while the latter. More...

A Wong - no place like home

23 Mar 2013 by Nick Lander/FT

As I watched Andrew Wong calling out the orders from behind the open counter of his restaurant, A Wong, a five-minute walk from London's Victoria Station, I wondered whether he was fully aware of the diverse nature of his customers. There were two elderly men, one of whom had a short. More...

Spending more than a penny

18 Mar 2013 by Nick Lander

When an old friend who combines a good sense of humour with a penchant for good coffee said we should meet for a chat at The Attendant on Foley Street in Fitzrovia, that relatively unspoilt area of central London whose boundaries for me at least are the Newman Street Tavern to the south and Honey. More...

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