I accepted the invitation to speak at the recent Gastronomika in San Sebastian, an hour east of Bilbao, northern Spain, for several reasons. Firstly, the audience I was asked to...

The culinary revolution that swept through the kitchens of San Sebastian initially, and then through the rest of Spain, had its origins, the story goes, in a culinary demonstration given by...

I had witnessed Juan Mari Arzak, Spain’s most respected chef, from a distance twice before I had the pleasure of eating in his restaurant in San Sebastian. On the first occasion he had held an...

As soon as the smoked tuna consommé was poured from a glass phial on to a bowl of diced sea urchins and watercress gelatine, the pure sea aromas that rose from our table immediately took me back...