The Beaune house of Louis Latour bought Simonnet-Febvre of Chalis in jun 03 so had the chance to put only half of their mark on the wines of 2003. I looked at a range of 2003s from both houses at the end of jun 05 and was surprised to find that of the Louis Latour reds, it was the two grown on the Côte de Nuits that were most to my taste – fresher and more delineated than the sometimes exaggerated 2003 Côte de Beaune reds. As usual, some of the Côte de Beaune whites were impressive, but I much prefer the 2002s in general. (No surprise there, then.) Louis Latour don’t own the vineyards that grow their Côte de Nuits grapes but buy...