I love any chance to assess the real merits of non vintage champagnes without the distraction of all the imagery broadcast by their labels – especially since it’s so rare that we are able to concentrate simply on what the wine tastes like. Purple pagers, who are more likely than most to be interested in the intrinsic quality of champagne rather than its reputation, may be interested in the results of a recent blind tasting of current NV cuvées. Last week I had the chance to compare 18 top NVs, all swathed in neutral silver foil, thanks to Her Majesty the Queen no less. The second tasting session I’ve participated in as a member...