As many of you may know, the nether parts of the Rheinhessen in Germany, far from the Rhine with its Gunderlochs and so on and long scorned as source of lowly Liebfraumilch, is today one of the world’s more exciting wine regions with legions of young producers proving that you don’t have to be on the classical map to make fine wine.   German wine writer Stuart Pigott wrote to me recently: “I would suggest that you taste the top six 2005 wines from Wagner-Stempel in Siefersheim to get a feel for how very different the new Rheinhessen can be from the old one.  They are from porphyry...