I tasted this collection of top wines in Madrid in last courtesy of the mail order operation TodoVino whose top picks from all Spanish wines they represent for 2007.   I was surprised and impressed by how winemaking in Spain has progressed since the last time I undertook this exerise and the wines have become more noticeably more subtle and less obviously oaked - at the top level at least. It’s great to see how increasingly they treasure indigenous varieties. The Palacios family of operations can surely take some of the credit for this.   A Spanish observer of the wine scene there commented: “they...