Independent UK retailer Lea & Sandeman is keeping its eyes very firmly on the ball and recently expanded west into Chiswick. This time last year, Jancis reviewed their Characterful reds and Characterful whites . This smaller selection, tasted in the confined part-stockroom below stairs in their Chelsea branch, reinforced their reputation of buying and selling with flair and confidence. I found the reds as a group slightly more impressive than the whites - typically distinctive, aromatic and well chosen to spark drinkers' imagination without deterring the more conservative - but I did taste more reds and there are certainly...