I was lucky enough to taste the dozen best vintages of Sassicaia recently, as decided by technical director, and stepson of the publicity-shy owner Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta, Dr Sebastiano Rosa. These fabulous bottles had been shipped over to London direct from this famous estate on the Tuscan coast, the one that has inspired a new generation of hopefuls in the Maremma - which may partly explain why they showed so exceptionally well. This was one of the most inspiring and consistent tastings I can remember (though admittedly my memory is not what it was).  Each wine was so fresh, and, as we travelled back from the...