Faced with an array of more than 500 Austrian wines at a tasting in London earlier this month, I found it hard to know where to start, and where to finish (I think I was the last one standing...). My original intention was to focus on whites from the 2009 vintage, to see if my impression of the wines chimed with the official vintage report , but then of course I realised that many of the 2009s that need more time to mature would not be bottled or ready to show. So at the last minute I changed tactics and attempted to taste a 2008 and a 2009 white from as many different producers as possible, to compare the vintages. But then of course I...