In a laudable example of bandwagons being pulled by hobby horses, wine aficionados have been showing palpable concern for the recently stricken island of Madeira. Madeira wine, with its distinctive and unique production and style, has long been championed by wine enthusiasts. Perhaps most visitors to this site will already be familiar with it but, regardless, I urge everyone to revisit this wonderful and incredible stuff. It comes in a diversity of styles, offers profound complexity that can shame table wines at twice its price, and ages with remarkable vivacity. And as if reasons of hedonism weren’t enough, the island...