Last week I had the enormous treat of tasting dozens of top quality wines, many of them very mature,  from Ridge in California to celebrate this great producer's half-century. You can read a bit of background in this week's wine of the week and much more in Ridge - a California exception.  Their speciality is single vineyard bottlings based on particularly old vines - mainly Bordeaux blends from around the ancient redwood winery on the eponymous ridge south of San Francisco and plots of Zinfandel and Zinfandel-dominated field blends in locations from Paso Robles to Sonoma. Above are some of the more senior vines,...