I'm publishing this today to celebrate a rather terrifying birthday of mine. All in all, average quality in this collection of current rosé champagnes is pretty good - certainly much better than when the pink bandwagon got rolling. Some of the wines are still distinguished from their white counterparts mainly by being sweeter, sometimes too sweet, but generally they are usefully softer and more perfumed. Colours vary enormously, from only just pink (Cattier Clos du Moulin) to deep clarete (Marc Chauvet). The two Dom Pérignons of course are in another category of quality - as well they might be in view of their price. These two...