Almost exactly 34 years ago my very first professional wine tasting took place in Canada House, overlooking the fountains of Trafalgar Square in central London. It featured what were then Ontario's best wines. It was not a happy experience. Last week I returned to Canada House for the first time, for another tasting of Ontario wine. What a contrast! Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook organised this showcase of 40 of Ontario's best Chardonnays, inspired by the fact that Chardonnay is the most planted variety in Canada's most vinous province (though see my notes on the equally impressive wines of British Columbia in the far west of the...