I have consistently been impressed by Chapoutier's very special, small-scale bottlings of wines produced from biodynamically farmed vines on their top sites, the collection Michel Chapoutier (pictured) calls Sélections Parcellaires. See, for example, my notes on the 2008s . But the 2009s are very exciting indeed, and worthy of attention from those looking for 2009s with massive personalities. Their rich, dense style does not exactly chime with this official Chapoutier policy statement: 'What characterises the great Chapoutier vintages is a search for maximum delicacy, through a nose/mouth crescendo and a real length on the...