Today's wine of the week is not the only Bulgarian of interest to curious, unprejudiced, quality-conscious wine lovers. Another was Isa Güner, a first-generation immigrant from Bulgaria to Turkey who founded his own winery in Izmir in 1942, inspired by what he had seen in France. The Sevilen winery began with four hectares of its own vines, which had increased to 50 by the late 1950s and is today 160 hectares in two areas, producing a total of about a million bottles a year. The original plantings were above Izmir on the coast, where the climate is similar to that of Puglia, but the more interesting vineyards being...