Michael Schmidt writes: 2009 - much ado about nothing? This was a question I came to ask myself several times during the sneak preview of the Riesling Grosse and Erste Gewächse white wines of that vintage (and 2008 reds) in Wiesbaden at the end of August. This is an annual event organised by the top growers assocation, the VDP . Hailed not just as a, but THE vintage of the century, even before its last grapes were picked, last year has a reputation that left my expectations sky high, but it takes more than exceptional weather to make outstanding wine. The not so old cliché that the wine makes itself in the vineyard is...