To accompany my recent  Provençal vision of the future  article, here follows a collection of tasting notes on that region's major output, rosé. The most notable wine, however, is also the odd one out: a first ever (I think) taste of Ch d'Esclan's inaugural white wine from Sasha Lichine and consultant Patrick Léon (ex Mouton), an oak-aged Rolle, the local synonym for Vermentino. It shares all the craft and quality of their famed rosés, on which Jancis reported in Pink wine can be fine wine . The notes are presented in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name. WHITE Ch d'Esclans, Déesse 2009 Côtes de...