The highlights of the recent inaugural International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau were the four tastings which were a marvel of efficiency and organisation on the part of the serving staff of the Schloss Reinhartshausen. In a series of three interlocking rooms, about 200 of us were served up to 22 wines each in just half an hour (from bottles sorted on the chilly terrace outside; fortunately it did not rain). Since all these wines were Riesling, it was vital that the glasses did not have too long to warm up. You can see the banks of glasses in front of each of us in the photo below. Colette Faller of Domaine Weinbach is on the...