There follows a vertiginous look at some of Australia's most venerable names - in the case of Tahbilk and Wendouree, a particularly comprehensive snapshot of how these wines mature. In both cases, these producers demonstrate an honest sympathy with vintage variation and also with crafting wines built to last -  indeed, in their youth, many of them seem distinctly undeveloped. With such variables, the drink dates were hard to estimate, and usually cover a pretty big window. Quality was, in the general scheme of things, excellent. Australian wine has been in the doldrums of late, which is especially sad when you consider what...