I do realise that I am ridiculously spoilt, I promise, in terms of the wine tastings I am invited to. This can make a wine writer horribly blasé, and it does take quite a lot to lure me over or under the Channel to France especially for a single tasting. I received a plethora of invitations associated with Vinexpo in Bordeaux last June and the only one I accepted was not from any French wine producer, nor even to any event in Bordeaux, but from Penfolds of Australia who planned to celebrate the end of Vinexpo week with a tasting and dinner at the Australian embassy in Paris that looked irresistible to me: Penfolds across six decades,...