The Wine Society is a British anomaly, a wine merchant that is owned by its members, a genuine co-operative then, and one with an uncommonly talented, and opinionated, buying team. Toby Morrhall, the buyer responsible for Chile, for example, is one of the outsiders who is most respected by the Chilean wine industry. Marcel Orford-Williams is a commendably free thinker, while Sebastian Payne MW, slowly retiring from full-time duties, is delightfully outspoken on the subject of Bordeaux and the Bordelais. I'm just a bit worried about the most junior member of the buying team, my fellow Master of Wine Jo Locke. She seems rather quiet and...