Every November, just before the official welcome ceremony at Vintners' Hall for new Masters of Wine, the tasting committee of the Institute of MWs organises a tasting of leading red bordeaux from  the vintage that is now four years old, so after a couple of years in bottle. Earlier this month it was the turn of the 2007s - quite a contrast after the opulent, concentrated delights of the 2009s shown under the auspices of the Union des Grands Crus at the Royal Opera House. All wines apart from the first growths were tasted blind. These 2007s aren't by any means bad. Top Bordeaux châteaux don't make bad wines any more. But...