I met French wine writer Yohan Castaing, who sends this report on the promising quality of 2012 grapes harvested by DRC and Domaine Leroy, almost a year ago when staying in Burgundy to taste the 2010s. I was staying, as I often do, at Anne Gros’s La Colombière, the attractively decorated, well priced, casual guest house she runs in her courtyard in Vosne-Romanée. We found ourselves helping ourselves to the baguettes and croissants delivered by the local baker every morning at the same time and got talking. He told me he was going to the generic organisation, the BIVB in Beaune, later that day to taste a wide range of...