The notes below on the 50 current bottlings of one of the world's great wines were taken at a rather extraordinary, and extremely unexpected, tasting for just me and Australian wine writer Max Allen in Melbourne last month. See Rutherglen ambush for more details.  The sweet, fortified 'stickies' of Rutherglen are hugely distinctive wines, and - along with Hunter Semillon - the style is one of Australia's unique gifts to the world of wine. These dental nightmares owe their extremely high sugar levels to the hot, dry climate of Rutherglen in the north east corner of the state of Victoria where nights are cooled by the...