‘Alberto Tasca d’Almerita – CEO’ reads his business card. It perfectly describes this elegantly clad, dynamic 40-something pictured below who, together with his brother Giuseppe, is in charge of 400 ha of vines and another 100 ha of olive groves in the centre of Sicily where, on the border of the provinces of Palermo and Caltanisetta, they produce some three million bottles of wine annually. He welcomes me to Regaleali, their regal estate which stretches over hills as far as the eye can see. Think Lampedusa’s The Leopard and you get the picture. (My picture shows the pillow embroidered T d'A on which I spent an extremely...