After teasing us with Alion 1991-2003 and other Vega Sicilia offerings in 2007, owner Pablo Á lvarez and winemaker Javier Ausás came to London in June to share 26 vintages of their top wine, Vega Sicilia Único, including the unreleased 2005 - and their new, unreleased rioja - in a headily perfumed room at The Square. Á lvarez' family bought the historic Vega Sicilia, the first estate of note in Ribera del Duero, as recently as 1982, when the oldest vintage in the bodega's cellars was (the fabulous) 1942, so to furnish wines for this extraordinary tasting they had bought in from collectors the older vintages shown...