I find it difficult to think of any wine anywhere that has changed as little over the last 30 years as San Leonardo, surely the most successful Bordeaux blend of northern Italy. Verticals of even Bordeaux's first growths since 1982 tend to show the influence of different management regimes and the whim of winemaking fashion. And any similar range of most California and Australian wines, even the most iconic, tends show even greater contrasts between, particularly, the various phases of enthusiasm for oak, for alcohol, for imperceptible tannins, for low acidity and so on. But San Leonardo seems to have hit its...