I have always been intrigued by Batàr, a white wine produced from Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay bang in the middle of Chianti Classico, in Greve, with a cheeky reference to Bâtard-Montrachet. Cheeky, I say, because I couldn't imagine that white grapes in the warm and sometimes very warm continental macroclimate of central Tuscany could produce anything coming close to that prime example of white burgundy. With a name like this, Batàr easily runs the risk of overpromising and underdelivering. Batàr is produced by Querciabella, which also turns out a Chianti Classico and a famous Supertuscan, Camartina, one of the first to be...