This vertical of a particularly fine Languedoc wine is offered as a taster for the big collection of tasting notes on wines from this, surely France's best-value wine region, to be published later this week. La  Pèira , or La  Pèira en Damaisèla  to give it its full name, is a particularly promising enterprise in the exciting Terrasses du Larzac subregion high above the plain of the Languedoc. The illustration below shows exactly where the estate, advised by the admirable oenologist    Claude Gros , is to be found. There is clearly real sensibility for the local terrain and varietal traditions.  ...