See an overview of the current Indian wine scene . What more logical way to celebrate the launch of Beaujolais Nouveau than to report on rapid progress in India's wines? Actually, what I do want to say about Beaujolais is to Forget Nouveau! What is really worthy of your attention is Beaujolais Ancien, the sort of deliciously crisp and fruity wine that delivers the same sort of pleasure as biting into a great apple straight off the tree. Here in New York I keep being asked to recommend wines for Thanksgiving Dinner (I'd forgotten this hazard of promoting wine books at this time of year) and I always recommend...