Look away now if you do not enjoy vicarious pleasure. We were totally and thoroughly spoilt last Saturday. Our most generous wine collector friend was celebrating his birthday and came up with the following formula: Nick cooked the main course; he brought the wine and the first course. All I had to do was provide the aperitif he asked for, 'one of those light German wines you like'. Jammy for me. Twice, for various reasons, we asked whether we could add to his specified guest list. Twice he politely refused. You may look at the wines served below and think the total quantity was far too much for six thirsty people, but now...