Clos de Tart v Monfortino
Last February I was invited to an intriguing comparative tasting of Mommessin's Clos de Tart v Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Monfortino. Intriguing because, on the face of it, the wines have nothing in common: different grape variety, different terroir and different country. I thought it merely looked as though the organiser, Camillo Favaro, a self-confessed Pinotphile who is Piemontese, had planned to taste two important crus side by side in the hope that the Italian would keep up in the comparison. Of course it did, although on the face of it the exercise appeared to be a little like comparing apples with pears. Favaro has...
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