A long-lived dry white - Mastroberardino Fiano
I thought I'd seen everything in terms of unusual grapes' reach into the mass market when I first encountered Tesco Finest Teroldego some years ago, but this has been trumped by the recent launch of Jacob's Creek Fiano. Clearly this Italian white varietal is going places - to a supermarket near you? Fiano is one of Campania's great white wine grapes and Mastroberardino is by a mile the dominant producer in Irpinia, the hilly Campanian hinterland of Naples. In the 1920s it was the third most important wine zone in Italy, apparently - quite a feat when one considers the topography. But those mountains are volcanic (it's not...
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