1990 (and thereabouts) North Rhônes

These wines, tasted blind with food, are listed in vintage order, with scores out of 20 and suggested drinking windows, in declining order of how much they impressed.

Hermitage

Hermitage La Chapelle 1990, Paul Jaboulet Aîné 19 Drink 2004-2020

This is a gloriously glossy standard bearer. It is concentrated, inky, rich and spicy and should ideally be kept for quite a while but there is so much sheer weight that the ripeness of the fruit will console you over the tannic spine should you decide to open a bottle now. It's the purity and freshness of the fruit that...