2005 bordeaux in bottle – an early observation

Yesterday I went to Milan to taste the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux’s showing of the glamorous 2005 bordeaux. This is an annual caravanserai of bottles and producers that visits five cities in each of Europe and North America and six in Asia (interesting that) showing off the latest vintage to have settled in bottle.
 
Because 2005 is such an important vintage, both from the point of view of quality and price, I was particularly keen to taste it at this, its first showing since the frenetic primeur tastings in early April 2006 but, inconveniently, had to be...