Alsace Gewurztraminers to excess

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Ever since at least the launch of this website in 2000, and probably long before, I have taken part in multiple wine tastings every week. But a tasting has never exhausted me as definitively as a blind tasting of 49 Alsace Gewurztraminers organised in September by The World of Fine Wine magazine for me and fellow wine writers Andrew Jefford and Charles Metcalfe.

I can’t remember ever participating in any significant tasting devoted to this particularly distinctive varietal (I think I can permit myself use of this word rather than ‘variety’ in this instance since I’m referring to wines rather...