American assortment

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27 Nov As a celebration of Thanksgiving Day (and as part of our Throwback Thursday series) we are republishing and making freely available this collection of tasting notes on 101 American wines tasted recently by our team. As I pointed out recently in Re-introducing Brits to California glory, at long last UK wine importers are taking a bit more interest in the wealth of fine wine being made in the US. For a guide to all of the regional and stylistic collections of tasting notes we are currently publishing, see Sorting through the assortments.

29 Oct Between now and the end of the year we are planning to publish a series of tasting articles on more than a dozen themes, mostly geographical but occasionally stylistic (as in fizz or fortified and sweet wines). This is the first of those, devoted to the American wines that happen to have come the way of my palate and those of the rest of the JR.com team.

As it happens, tomorrow we will be publishing a collection of tasting notes on almost 90 of America’s finest Cabernets but this is a coincidence. There are two main reasons for publishing this ragbag of reviews of US wines that have, relatively unusually, made it over the Atlantic. Firstly because a series of new imports by one of Britain’s few champions of American wine, Roberson, constituted one of my first tastings once I was back in the swing of tasting here in London after the summer break. Secondly because, with the exception of the ocean of inexpensive likes of Blossom Hill and the more basic Gallo brands, we see all too few wines from the US in the UK, which meant that this assortment was relatively easy to assemble.

While we continue to work on other assortments, many of them very much more extensive than this one, we hope that you enjoy an unusually British perspective on some interesting American wines.

Tasting notes are presented whites first, then reds. We've grouped them by state (California and Oregon) and then within each state, we present them in declining score order.

WHITES 

CALIFORNIA

Lioco Chardonnay 2012 Sonoma County

Really fragrant, floral nose – the Mendoza clone, perhaps? Then a creamy palate with ramrod acidity for structure. Very much new wave Chardonnay, but still very much from a CA zip code. Great stuff – superb length! (RH)

Drink
2014
2023
17.5 +

Merryvale, Silhouette Chardonnay 2011 Napa Valley

Lovely fruit character – star fruit, grapefruit. Crisp, well defined, well-handled oak. So appetising – really foody. Leaps and bounds ahead of their Carneros Chardonnay. (RH)

14.4%
Drink
2013
2018
17 +

Sandhi Chardonnay 2012 Sta Rita Hills

Stone fruit and real substance. More than a hint of burgundy in this! Long. Great intensity for the alcohol level and not a hint of sweetness. Long. It gets better and better towards the finish.

12.8%
Drink
2014
2018
£34.95 Roberson
17

Sandhi Chardonnay 2012 Santa Barbara County

Leesy and yeasty with lots of tropical fruit. Slightly bitter acid – sharp-tongued. Discordant structure, but the flavours are spot on for premium Californian Chardonnay. (RH)

Drink
2014
2018
17

Joseph Swan Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley

Gorgeous, succulent fruit, with a toasty, smoky edge. Still beautifully balanced, though it isn't showing the range of flavour you might get from equivalent burgundy. Instead there is a ripe, fleshy mellowness. (RH)

Drink
2013
2018
17

Flowers Chardonnay 2011 Sonoma Coast

Real interest on the nose, with great presence and – could it be? – a little saltiness. Ocean mist and all that... Layers of flavour.

14%
Drink
2013
2017
Wine Treasury
16.5 +

Schug Chardonnay 2012 Sonoma Coast

Gentle and by no means obviously California! But with some attractively burgundian mealiness and American friendliness. Good chew. Alcohol well hidden.

14%
Drink
2014
2017
Wine Treasury
16.5

Smith-Madrone Riesling 2012 Spring Mountain District

Spring Mountain District. A herbal, full bodied style of Riesling on the nose. A tad more phenolics than I think you'd find in a similar wine from Germany or Austria. But there is admirable acidity and it finishes dry – much drier than most American Rieslings. In fact it's a bit young. A sterling effort and I feel they should be rewarded for persisting with Riesling in the Napa Valley! Though it does seem a bit expensive.

12.6%
Drink
2015
2020
£26.95 Roberson
16 +

Marimar, Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño 2012 Russian River Valley

Screwcap!  (Most unusual for a California wine.) Their third vintage. 50% of the fruit went through malolactic. Very clear. Yes, it does smell of Albarino – a good start. Good fruit on the mid palate. Very agreeable with notable acidity but more breadth on the palate than the average Galician example. Some of the brininess.

14%
Drink
2014
2016
$32 RRP
16

Nalle, Hopkins Ranch Reserve Chardonnay 2010 Russian River Valley

Grainy, mature, with some greenness on the nose. Relatively fine for a California Chardonnay. Just a little sweet on the finish but overall this has admirable tension. Juts a hint of coffee but pretty burgundian. Evolved with mealy (burgundian) notes but real lightness of touch. By no means ridiculously priced for a fine Californian.

13.6%
Drink
2012
2015
£27.95-£29 Bottle Apostle, Corks of Cotham, Butlers Wine Cellar of Brighton
16

Ramey Chardonnay 2010 Sonoma Coast

Quite lean, restrained style. Not a huge amount of substance here. Seems a bit straightforward for the price. (RH)

13.5%
Drink
2013
2015
16

HdV Chardonnay 2010 Napa Valley

Light butterscotch nose. A bit expensive for what it is. But very refined and cool for Napa Chardonnay.

14%
Drink
2012
2015
£47.25 RRP Corney & Barrow
16

Merryvale Chardonnay 2012 Carneros

Creamy nose, light palate. Citrus fruit on the palate. Sharp acid but smoothly textured. Rather simple finish. (RH)

14%
Drink
2013
2016
16

Handley Riesling 2013 Anderson Valley

Deep gold. Tense and with lots of acidity though much more phenolic than most German Rieslings. A curiosity. Tart.

Drink
2014
2015
£15.75 The Sampler
15.5

Marimar, Acero Chardonnay 2012 Russian River Valley

Organically grown, close planted vines, mainly the See clone. Unoaked. This seems a little fresher and slimmer than some previous vintages – or is it just the unoaked nature of it that is appealing to me? Juicy and a little bit sweet on the palate.  It doesn't seem that intense and the finish is a bit dull. A simple wine.

14.5%
Drink
2014
2016
$29 RRP
15.5

Handley Chardonnay 2011 Mendocino

Sweet start and then round and floral. Easy and not overdone though not too rich. Refreshing. But just a little simple.

Drink
2012
2015
£14.40 The Sampler
15.5

Edna Valley Vineyard, Paragon Chardonnay 2012 Central Coast

TA 5.5 g/l, RS 3.5 g/l, pH 3.65. Fruit from Monterey, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara. Whole-cluster pressed. 30% fermented in used barrels and partial malo. Weekly lees stirring.


Not particularly aromatic. Slightly oily citrus and doesn't taste bone dry. It does have freshness but overall I find it a little heavy. There's a butteriness on the finish that conspires with the sweetness to put me off. (JH)

13.9%
Drink
2014
2015
£12.99 Majestic
15

OREGON

Bergström, Old Stones Chardonnay 2012 Willamette Valley

Screwcap.  An old favourite. 'Baby sister to Sigrid Chardonnay.' Quite a bit of evolution on the nose. Very succulent and precise.  Interesting contrast with the Coldstream Hills Chardonnays I tasted the day before – it's actually a bit more crystalline – delightfully pure and indeed quite reminiscent of wet stones (not sure of their age).  Also the very merest hint of passion fruit but nothing too obvious. Neat finish. This seems a very fair price for the quality.  It would be difficult to find this value from Burgundy.

13.8%
Drink
2014
2018
£24.95 Roberson
17

REDS

CALIFORNIA

Wind Gap Syrah 2011 Sonoma Coast

Made by Pax Mahle of the Pax label with which he is no longer associated. Very much part of the New California crew, as you can see from the alcoholic strength. Concrete eggs a feature. Mmm.  I thought it might be a bit too extreme for me but instead, it's probably the most flavourful red under 12% alcohol I have ever come across. All black pepper and smoked bacon on the nose, it recalls the purity of Côte Rôtie but with even more purity. How has this remained unsold, I wonder? Really sinewy finish. Like a great male ballet dancer (and if that description puts off the potential buyer – tant mieux. All the more for us). Such delicacy! Maybe not for the very long run but why wait?

11.4%
Drink
2013
2016
£34.95 Roberson
17.5

Sean Thackrey, Pleiades XXIII Old Vines NV California

Bottled in April 2014. Sangiovese, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Mourvèdre. Usually two or three years old.


Pale ruby. Really interesting blend of chocolatey sweetness and dried herbs. So much more interesting than yet another international varietal. Lovely and not that expensive. Very full.

13.5%
Drink
2014
2019
Wine Treasury
17.5

Flowers Pinot Noir 2011 Sonoma Coast

Interesting! Fruity but lots of iodine, marmite, umami mushroom character as well. Dry, chewy finish. Compelling. (RH)

13.2%
Drink
2014
2022
17.5

Nalle 2012 Dry Creek Valley

A very precise front label tells us that this, presumably field, blend is 82% Zinfandel, 9% Petite Sirah and 9% Carignane. Exceptional freshness on this nose. Real energy! So unlike the typical Zin.  Mid to pale crimson. Juicy but serious. There's slightly baked tarry element but no heaviness whatsoever. Excellent length and completeness. Some sweetness but only in the way that fully ripe fruit is sweet; no berry jammy character. It is definitely Zin but not a we know it. I really can't think of another Zin like this. Ridge Lytton Springs, made nearby, runs it close but this is more high toned. And bone dry. My only concern would be whether it is worth ageing this charming wine.

13.5%
Drink
2014
2018
£29.95-£31 Corks of Cotham
17

Wilde Farm, Donnelly Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 Anderson Valley

New outfit with the Wind Gap winemakers Pax Mahle and Scott Schultz. Vines were planted in this relatively cool location (home to Roederer Estate and Navarro) in 1991. Quite deep crimson. But really very burgundian in build and energy. Light and lively. Silky tannins.  Very savoury and fine.  Exciting! Lovely succulence and refinement on this wine. Spreads with some cranberry fruit all across the palate with real polish. Not cheap but not overpriced. Real persistence but not alcoholic power. Bravo!

12.7%
Drink
2014
2020
£38.95 Roberson
17

DuMOL Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley

Super ripe fruit, soft tannins, smooth mouthfeel. Liquid chocolate. Very modern and fruity, and therefore perhaps lacking a certain savoury interest for traditionalists. (RH)

14.5%
Drink
2014
2019
17

Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Spring Mountain District

From a steep reclaimed hillside on Spring Mountain with volcanic underpinning. Estate bottled. Healthy and herbal. Very delicate and lively. Lots of freshness. Still quite youthful. Tense and light as a feather. Very unlike the Napa norm. It was even better after 24 hours – a good sign!

14.1%
Drink
2016
2026
£39.95 Roberson
16.5 +

Wild Ridge Pinot Noir 2011 Sonoma Coast

Vines at 900 m close to Annapolis – surrounded by trees. Punchdowns. Spontaneous malo in French barrels (50% new). 10 months in oak. pH 3.57, TA 5.8 g/l.
Mid cherry red. Subtle, fragrant red fruit with a lovely fresh herbal note. A firm grip on the palate but the fruit is clearly cool climate and has an attractive brightness. The oak is present but not too dominant. (JH)

14%
Drink
2014
2018
16.5

Marimar, Cristina Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley

50% new, 50% second year French barriques. Mid crimson. 60% Swan clone, the rest mainly Pommard. 
There is real grunt to this wine – more so that to the Sonoma Coast 2010 bottling.  It's not refined but it is chock fully of mushroomy character and I can see the relation to the Joseph Swan Pinots. Something earthy and sensual. Bravo! Opulent and quintessentially Sonoma.

14.5%
Drink
2013
2019
$49 RRP
16.5

Lagier Meredith Mondeuse 2011 Mount Veeder

This is part of their experiment to compare Syrah and Mondeuse. Much lighter and fresher than the Syrah 2010. Terrible rainy year but the results are rather pleasing.

Drink
2014
2018
£33.30 The Sampler
16.5

La Jota Vineyard Co Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Howell Mountain

Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Includes some Cabernet Franc. 700 feet in poor soil of reddish-brown clay over white volcanic tufa (volcanic ash). Cold soak, fermented in steel, malo in barrel, new French oak, 19 months in barrel.
Dark crimson. Smells wonderfully fresh with cassis and herbal notes plus a slight note of mint, and an attractive earthiness. Avoids any excess sweetness on the nose though the oak certainly imparts sweet spice and vanilla/chocolate character on the palate. Tannins are remarkably rounded and gentle yet still with something to get your teeth into and this seems just ready for drinking now, but with no rush. Sweet and broad on the finish. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2014
2020
16.5

Wind Gap, Old Vine Grenache 2012 Sonoma County

Two concrete eggs and 420 cases, says the label. (No oak then.) From 85 year-old vines. Great sweetness but a little austere on the finish. Very unusual!  Some spice and jujube quality but none of the sensual richness and concentration of most Grenache. I'm a little puzzled by this – it doesn't conform to any Grenache known to me. It's quite refreshing but arguably a bit too muscular and austere on the end.

Drink
2015
2019
£33.95 Roberson
16 +

Edna Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 Central Coast

RS 1.8 g/l, pH 3.71, TA 5 g/l.Fruit from Olson Ranch in Santa Lucia Highlands and Paragon in Edna Valley. De-stemmed but not crushed.


Mid cherry red. Cherry and raspberry fruit and a hint of iron. Really juicy and fruity on the palate but not excessively sweet in terms of fruit flavour.holehearted rather than complex. Tannins are discreet but present and there's a touch of liquorice on the finish. Moreish and fresh. Fruit to the fore. (JH)

14.1%
Drink
2014
2016
£12.99 Majestic
16

DeLoach Pinot Noir 2012 Russian River Valley

Organic. Very pale ruby. Medicinal note. Lively and bright without too much sweetness. Very respectable in the new mould.

13.5%
Drink
2014
2016
£19 RRP Liberty Wines
16

Schug Pinot Noir 2011 Carneros

Very pure and charming. There does seem to be just a suggestion of German spiciness on this. Assertive! And a tad sweet. Not quite as good as the Chardonnay but not over the top.

14%
Drink
2014
2016
Wine Treasury
16

Marimar, Dona Margarita Vineyard, Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir 2010 Sonoma Coast

Just six miles from the Pacific and planted with a mix of Pommard and 115 clones. 25% new French oak barriques. Bottled in August 2011. (Quite a time ago.) 
Pale ruby. Sweet and herbal nose. Sweet spicy palate. Some fresh acidity on the end but the oak seems a little heavy handed. Could do with a little more energy. Just a tad rough edged.

14.5%
Drink
2014
2018
$44 RRP
16

Freemark Abbey Merlot 2011 Napa Valley

Unnecessarily heavy bottle. From vineyards in Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain and Rutherford. 81% Merlot, plus Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. pH 3.55. Aged 14 months in French and US oak, 15% new.
Deep cherry red. Rich dark fruit with savoury black olive note, dark chocolate as well as plenty of spice and a slight dustiness. Rich and nicely chewy on the palate and just a bit hard on the finish but the Cabernet Franc gives freshness to lift the whole. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2014
2018
16

Lagier Meredith Syrah 2010 Mount Veeder

Very fine and tarry and salty and pure. Uncompromising. None of the sweetness found in many bottlings. A bit austere. Not enough rain?

Drink
2014
2019
£40.50 The Sampler
16

Lyeth, L de Lyeth Merlot 2012 North Coast

Incredibly smart-looking for the $$$. Sweet and with some structure. Much better than I expected. Really pretty GV.

Drink
2014
2015
£13 RRP Liberty Wines
15.5

Byron Pinot Noir 2012 Santa Barbara County

16 months in small French oak, 18% new. Sandy loam soils, mix of old and younger vines. pH 3.46. Screwcap.
Mid ruby. Slightly earthy red fruit, and not too sweet smelling. Initially a slight beetroot note though that seems to disappear. Oak is evident in a sweetness that coats the mouth initially but is a little hard/bitter on the finish. There's plenty of fruit in the middle and just a touch of heat on the finish. Persists well so it is a shame about that bitterness at the very end. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2014
2016
15.5

Lagier Meredith Tribidrag 2012 Mount Veeder

This is the second varietal Tribidrag (the original Croatian name for the grape also known as Zinfandel and Primitivo in our tasting notes database). Carole Meredith, co-owner of this estimable small wine estate, played an important part in initiating the 'Zinquest', the search for the variety's roots.  In its youth it tastes a bit sweet with dried fruit character. It's varietally correct but not fluid. In fact for the moment it's distinctly tarry and hard work.

Drink
2016
2020
£36 The Sampler
15.5 +

The Hess Collection, Select Pinot Noir 2012 Central Coast

Mid pale ruby. Some rather attractive earthiness on the nose. Then very sweet on the palate – just too sweet for a wine lover’s palate, I fear. Shame! Because everything else is in place.

Drink
2014
2015
£19 RRP Liberty Wines
15

Broc Valdiguié 2013 Green Valley, Solano County

An experimental bottling from 60-70 year-old vines of this variety for long called Napa Gamay in northern California. A little 'natural' on the nose. Pretty tart and unyielding. Not enough fruit and mid palate interest for me. I think this is one of those wines that trend-conscious somms might like on their lists for variety but I couldn't imagine falling on it myself. Hard finish hints at mousiness. Awfully tart!

12%
Drink
2014
2017
£21.95 Roberson
15

OREGON

Brooks Pinot Noir 2011 Willamette Valley

Mid cherry red. Inviting spicy fragrance. Cedary freshness. Very peppery on the palate and nicely dry on the finish. Good length. (JH)

12.6%
Drink
2013
2018
£19.95 Stone Vine & Sun
16.5

Bergström, Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 Willamette Valley

A blend from their five vineyards as opposed to their single vineyard bottlings. Bright ruby. Relatively rich and concentrated nose with red fruit flavours in abundance and a good balance of freshness on the palate. Not scrawny but very lively.  Pretty impressive even if the lack of density suggests it may not have a particularly long life. Lovely harmony. Savoury finish. Very juicy and appetising with the merest hint of something medicinal. Dry finish. Lots of energy.

13.5%
Drink
2014
2017
£34.95 Roberson
16.5

Hedges Family, CMS 2011 Columbia Valley

Juicy friendly blend without any excesses. I would fall on this in Seattle but maybe it seems less good value in the UK.

13.5%
Drink
2013
2017
Roberson
16

Beaux Frères Pinot Noir 2011 Willamette Valley

Ruby – looks as though it has aged a bit. Mild, mellow nose and just a little dry on the finish as though the grapes had shrivelled a bit. Not the purest expression.

14%
Drink
2015
2016
Wine Treasury
15.5

Soter, Planet Oregon Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon

Oregon appellation bought-in fruit from Rogue inter alia. Crimson and fresh. Very bright fruit – more a sweetish fragrant red wine than Pinot necessarily but not exorbitant.

14%
Drink
2014
2015
Wine Treasury
15.5

Firesteed 2011 Oregon

Very pale ruby. A little stewed on the nose. And then rather tart. Not much fun here, I’m afraid. Blended to a price?

Drink
2014
2015
£19 RRP Liberty Wines
14.5