An early look at some 1997 vintage ports

To judge from these wines tasted in May 2002, the Taylor and Fonseca team rather outshone the Symington ports in 1997, a more obviously structured vintage than the enormously fleshy 1994s that found such favour when they were released.

Dow 199717.5 Drink 2010 – 2025

Very deep crimson. Extraordinarily feral/floral and liquorice. Relatively light and definitely adolescent. Tannins, but not great weight in the middle.

Warre 199718 Drink 2012 – 2028

Tealeaf. More savoury than the Dow's, then raisins and mass and lots of tannins. Quite elegant and lively. Dry finish.

Graham 199718.5 Drink 2015 – 2030...