Brunello 2013 – the leopard's spots

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See our guide to Walter's coverage this year of Montalcino, as well as his Brunello – an early look at 2010–2013 and Jancis's 15 early tasting notes on Brunello 2013s here

‘Come le macchie del gattopardo – like spots on a leopard’s skin – is how one producer described the quality of the 2013 Brunellos to me last January when I was in Montalcino to taste this just-released vintage. It is a pretty apt summary of a vintage that produced both very good as well as mediocre wines. The Consorzio of Brunello di Montalcino, the official producer...