One of my many hobby horses is that, as summers in Burgundy seem (generally) to be becoming warmer, some of those appellations traditionally associated with grapes that have struggled to ripen are coming into their own. (St-Aubin springs to mind.) I wonder therefore if that helps to explain the vigorous work I saw on Wednesday morning preparing a new vineyard right up against the forest on the east-facing, quite steep side of the road leading up to the relatively cool village of Pernand-Vergelesses – in the top right hand corner of this World Atlas of Wine map? Or perhaps...